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Physical VS Chemical Sunscreen: Which to Use?

You already know all the reasons it’s important wear sunscreen every single day, but if you haven’t found the best choice for you, you may be tempted to skip it. Maybe your formula feels greasy and you suspect it’s clogging your pores or breaking you out. Or maybe it’s thick and no matter how hard you attempt to rub it in, it still leaves a conspicuous white cast behind. 

The first step in finding a sunscreen that’s better suited for you is to understand the difference between chemical and physical formulas. Here, I explain the pros and cons of each. 

What Is Physical (or Mineral) Sunscreen?

Physical, or mineral, sunscreen contains one or both of these active mineral ingredients: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. “Physical block is made of zinc and/or titanium oxide and it acts like a wall that does not absorb in the skin. It sits on the skin as a protective layer. One of my favorites is the Vichy Capital Soliel Tinted 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 60.

I usually recommend physical blockers, which tend to create less issues with allergies overall, for people with sensitive skin. I also think physical blockers are a better choice for people with heat-sensitive skin disorders such as melasma because you are not absorbing the sun’s rays, thereby leading to a decrease in heat production.

Physical sunscreen is less likely to clog pores, so they’re great for acne-prone skin types as well. 

What Is Chemical Sunscreen?

Chemical sunscreens are made up of ingredients that absorb into the skin, and will subsequently absorb the rays and scatter UV rays into the skin as heat. Common ingredients used in chemical sunscreens are octylcrylene, avobenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, oxybenzone, homosalate and helioplex.

One of the biggest benefits of chemical sunscreens is that they’re available in multiple formulations, such as aerosol sprays, lotions and sticks. And because they are designed to absorb into skin, they can be easier to apply. 

However, chemical sunscreens can cause irritation for sensitive skin types. Additionally, the sun can break down their effectiveness over time, so it’s important to reapply throughout the day.

The Pros and Cons of Each

Physical sunscreens should start working as soon as you apply them, whereas chemical sunscreens typically require about 20 minutes to become fully effective. The texture of physical sunscreen is typically denser, thicker and more opaque than chemical sunscreens, and can often appear chalky and ashy against darker skin tones (look for one that’s tinted to avoid this). In addition, physical sunscreens tend to rub off more easily with sweat and water than chemical formulas, however as mentioned earlier, the sun can naturally break down the barrier of chemical sunscreens, which also means you’ll have to reapply them throughout the day, even if you’re doing minimal activity outside.

In terms of which is right for you, it really depends on your skin type, your lifestyle and your personal preference of texture and application method. You’ll find that some formulas will contain both chemical and physical blockers, which can help narrow down your pick. 

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